{"id":843,"date":"2019-03-31T09:55:08","date_gmt":"2019-03-31T14:55:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/?p=843"},"modified":"2019-04-04T20:08:29","modified_gmt":"2019-04-05T01:08:29","slug":"parenthese-cubaine-vinales-et-trinidad","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/2019\/03\/31\/parenthese-cubaine-vinales-et-trinidad\/","title":{"rendered":"Parenth\u00e8se cubaine : Vi\u00f1ales et Trinidad"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Voici le second et dernier \u00e9pisode de notre parenth\u00e8se cubaine. Apr\u00e8s la Havane, nous avons pris un bus le 15 mars pour nous diriger vers la partie Ouest du pays, vers la vall\u00e9e de Vi\u00f1ales.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Apr\u00e8s presque 4 heures de trajet nous voil\u00e0 d\u00e9barqu\u00e9s dans ce petit village. \u00c0 notre grande surprise, de nombreux locaux se sont jet\u00e9s sur nous d\u00e8s notre sortie du bus pour nous vanter les m\u00e9rites de leur <em>casa particular<\/em>. Ayant d\u00e9j\u00e0 r\u00e9serv\u00e9 la n\u00f4tre, nous avons pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9 suivre notre plan. Nous sommes rapidement arriv\u00e9s chez Lizette, qui nous accueilli tr\u00e8s chaleureusement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Puisque nous avions l&rsquo;apr\u00e8s-midi devant nous, nous avons d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de monter au <em>Mirador de los Jazmines<\/em>, l&rsquo;h\u00f4tel le plus hupp\u00e9 du coin depuis lequel, d&rsquo;apr\u00e8s le guide, il y avait une superbe vue sur la vall\u00e9e de Vi\u00f1ales. En effet : <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"295\" src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0622-DSC_0626-1024x295.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-846\" srcset=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0622-DSC_0626-1024x295.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0622-DSC_0626-300x87.jpg 300w, https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0622-DSC_0626-768x222.jpg 768w, https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0622-DSC_0626-640x185.jpg 640w, https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0622-DSC_0626.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>La vall\u00e9e de Vi\u00f1ales et des <em>mogotes<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Les petites formations rocheuses sont appel\u00e9es <em>mogotes<\/em>, et constituent, avec les plantations de cigares, le paysage typique de cette vall\u00e9e. Sa beaut\u00e9 est c\u00e9l\u00e8bre depuis qu&rsquo;elle a \u00e9t\u00e9 inscrite au Patrimoine Mondial de l&rsquo;Unesco en 1999. C&rsquo;est donc \u00e9galement un Parc National prot\u00e9g\u00e9 \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9chelle du pays.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le soir nous avons profit\u00e9 de l&rsquo;ambiance festive du village : un groupe jouait de la salsa sur la place principale, des vendeurs de mojitos se sont improvis\u00e9s dans la rue, les touristes (tr\u00e8s nombreux) faisaient la queue pr\u00e8s d&rsquo;un vendeur de petites pizzas \u00e0 1 CUC. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le lendemain matin, nous sommes partis en direction de la grotte de <em>Santo Tomas<\/em>, \u00e0 bord d&rsquo;une vieille voiture am\u00e9ricaine faisant office de taxi. Avec un groupe de dix touristes, nous avons suivi un guide, \u00e0 l&rsquo;aise dans la grotte comme un poisson dans l&rsquo;eau, qui nous a conduit \u00e0 travers les diff\u00e9rentes galeries obscures. Nous \u00e9tions tous munis d&rsquo;un casque \u00e0 lampe frontale, et avons pu ainsi admirer des formations rocheuses magnifiques, ainsi que quelques animaux timides : des chauve-souris, des crabes, et des insectes qui, je cite le guide,\u00a0\u00bbressemblent \u00e0 des araign\u00e9es mais ne sont pas des araign\u00e9es parce qu&rsquo;ils ont six pattes\u00a0\u00bb.  C&rsquo;\u00e9tait assez sportif, avec des passages \u00e9troits et glissants, et des descentes \u00e0 faire \u00e0 la corde. Une fois arriv\u00e9s au bout du chemin, et avant de reprendre en sens inverse, le guide nous a fait \u00e9teindre nos lampes. J&rsquo;ai ador\u00e9 ce court moment, o\u00f9 j&rsquo;ai vraiment pris conscience d&rsquo;\u00eatre \u00ab\u00a0dans\u00a0\u00bb la terre, au milieu d&rsquo;un silence impressionnant, mais finalement interrompu par le guide, qui a fait la blague de s&rsquo;en aller et de nous laisser tout seuls. <\/p>\n\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\">\n#foogallery-gallery-847 .fg-image { width: 150px; }\n#foogallery-gallery-847 { --fg-gutter: 10px; }<\/style>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"foogallery foogallery-container foogallery-default foogallery-lightbox-foobox fg-center fg-default fg-ready fg-light fg-border-thin fg-shadow-outline fg-loading-default fg-loaded-fade-in fg-caption-hover fg-hover-fade fg-hover-zoom\" id=\"foogallery-gallery-847\" data-foogallery=\"{&quot;item&quot;:{&quot;showCaptionTitle&quot;:false,&quot;showCaptionDescription&quot;:true},&quot;lazy&quot;:true,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;src&quot;,&quot;srcset&quot;:&quot;srcset&quot;}\" style=\"--fg-title-line-clamp: 0; --fg-description-line-clamp: 0;\" >\n\t<div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0632.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"La vue depuis l&#039;entr\u00e9e de la grotte\" data-attachment-id=\"848\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0632\/1502261595.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-desc\">La vue depuis l&rsquo;entr\u00e9e de la grotte<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0635.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"849\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0635\/2363477461.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0636.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"850\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0636\/4181891790.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0630.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"Je ne suis pas cr\u00e9dible\" data-attachment-id=\"851\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0630\/3770541790.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-desc\">Je ne suis pas cr\u00e9dible<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>L&rsquo;apr\u00e8s-midi, nous sommes all\u00e9s faire un tour au jardin botanique de la ville, o\u00f9 une visite en fran\u00e7ais \u00e9tait d\u00e9j\u00e0 en cours. C&rsquo;\u00e9tait un endroit tr\u00e8s joli, mais difficile \u00e0 prendre en photo, \u00e0 cause des forts contrastes lumineux entre la lumi\u00e8re br\u00fblante et l&rsquo;ombre des arbres. <\/p>\n\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\">\n#foogallery-gallery-852 .fg-image { width: 150px; }\n#foogallery-gallery-852 { --fg-gutter: 10px; }<\/style>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"foogallery foogallery-container foogallery-default foogallery-lightbox-foobox fg-center fg-default fg-ready fg-light fg-border-thin fg-shadow-outline fg-loading-default fg-loaded-fade-in fg-caption-hover fg-hover-fade fg-hover-zoom\" id=\"foogallery-gallery-852\" data-foogallery=\"{&quot;item&quot;:{&quot;showCaptionTitle&quot;:true,&quot;showCaptionDescription&quot;:true},&quot;lazy&quot;:true,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;src&quot;,&quot;srcset&quot;:&quot;srcset&quot;}\" style=\"--fg-title-line-clamp: 0; --fg-description-line-clamp: 0;\" >\n\t<div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0638.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"853\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0638\/3076367145.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0640.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"854\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0640\/1941673843.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0644.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"855\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0644\/677506078.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous avions pour ambition de profiter de l&rsquo;ambiance festive de la place du village de la m\u00eame mani\u00e8re que le soir pr\u00e9c\u00e9dent, mais surprise : il a plu des trombes d&rsquo;eau d\u00e8s le d\u00e9but de soir\u00e9e. Cela nous a surpris, mais rafra\u00eechis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le jour suivant, Thomas est parti seul avant l&rsquo;aube (je n&rsquo;\u00e9tais pas aussi courageuse) pour photographier la vall\u00e9e au lever du soleil. Il a pris le bus pour arriver \u00e0 un bon point de vue.<\/p>\n\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\">\n#foogallery-gallery-856 .fg-image { width: 150px; }\n#foogallery-gallery-856 { --fg-gutter: 10px; }<\/style>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"foogallery foogallery-container foogallery-default foogallery-lightbox-foobox fg-center fg-default fg-ready fg-light fg-border-thin fg-shadow-outline fg-loading-default fg-loaded-fade-in fg-caption-hover fg-hover-fade fg-hover-zoom\" id=\"foogallery-gallery-856\" data-foogallery=\"{&quot;item&quot;:{&quot;showCaptionTitle&quot;:true,&quot;showCaptionDescription&quot;:true},&quot;lazy&quot;:true,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;src&quot;,&quot;srcset&quot;:&quot;srcset&quot;}\" style=\"--fg-title-line-clamp: 0; --fg-description-line-clamp: 0;\" >\n\t<div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0650.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"857\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0650\/2299041025.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0658.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"858\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0658\/1673101167.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0669.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"859\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0669\/1225668259.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0685.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"860\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0685\/4028138914.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>La m\u00eame journ\u00e9e, nous avons fait du CHEVAL. Thomas et moi ne sommes d&rsquo;ordinaire pas tr\u00e8s \u00e0 l&rsquo;aise avec ces b\u00eates-l\u00e0, mais suite aux recommandations de notre h\u00f4te Lizette, qui affirmait que c&rsquo;\u00e9tait la meilleure mani\u00e8re de d\u00e9couvrir des coins sympas de la vall\u00e9e, nous nous sommes lanc\u00e9s. Un guide au chapeau de cow-boy est venu nous chercher, et nous avons fait la connaissance de <em>Caramelo<\/em> et <em>Chocolate<\/em>, nos deux montures pour les trois heures \u00e0 venir. Nous sommes pass\u00e9s par des endroits superbes, o\u00f9 le rouge sang de la terre se m\u00ealait \u00e0 du sable blanc, o\u00f9 les pins verts se dressaient hauts dans le ciel bleu, o\u00f9 les <em>mogotes<\/em> lointains imposaient leur relief. Tout \u00e9tait calme, le silence \u00e9tant uniquement ponctu\u00e9 des injonctions de notre guide \u00e0 ses chevaux (\u00ab\u00a0Carameeeeeeeelo\u00a0\u00bb, \u00ab\u00a0Chocolaaaaaate\u00a0\u00bb), quand le rythme n&rsquo;\u00e9tait pas assez rapide pour lui. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous avons fait un premier arr\u00eat dans une ferme de tabac. Le propri\u00e9taire, un cubain sympathique surnomm\u00e9 <em>El negro<\/em> (\u00ab\u00a0le noir\u00a0\u00bb, mais il n&rsquo;\u00e9tait pas noir du tout), nous a tout expliqu\u00e9, en espagnol : la r\u00e9colte des feuilles de tabac, leur s\u00e9chage, le roulage du cigare. C&rsquo;\u00e9tait passionnant. Nous avons profit\u00e9 de sa disposition \u00e0 parler pour le questionner davantage sur les conditions de vie des agriculteurs, la place de l&rsquo;\u00c9tat cubain (tous les fermiers doivent vendre 90% de leurs productions \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00c9tat), la qualit\u00e9 des cigares. C&rsquo;\u00e9tait un moment m\u00e9morable, au milieu de la verdure et du calme de la vall\u00e9e, qui s&rsquo;est termin\u00e9 sur un cigare, que j&rsquo;ai cette fois r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 fumer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous avons ensuite visit\u00e9 une ferme qui faisait du caf\u00e9, du miel, et du rhum. Mais cette \u00e9tape \u00e9tait beaucoup moins authentique, et encourageait surtout la consommation touristique. Apr\u00e8s cela, nous sommes remont\u00e9s sur les chevaux pour retourner au village, les cuisses plut\u00f4t endolories mais des images plein les yeux. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Voici les photos de l&rsquo;excursion : <\/p>\n\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\">\n#foogallery-gallery-861 .fg-image { width: 640px; }<\/style>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"foogallery foogallery-container foogallery-image-viewer foogallery-link-image foogallery-lightbox-foobox fg-center fg-image-viewer fg-ready fg-light fg-border-thin fg-shadow-outline fg-loading-default fg-loaded-fade-in fg-caption-hover fg-hover-fade fg-hover-zoom\" id=\"foogallery-gallery-861\" data-foogallery=\"{&quot;item&quot;:{&quot;showCaptionTitle&quot;:false,&quot;showCaptionDescription&quot;:true},&quot;lazy&quot;:true,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;src&quot;,&quot;srcset&quot;:&quot;srcset&quot;,&quot;template&quot;:{&quot;loop&quot;:true,&quot;autoplay&quot;:0}}\" style=\"--fg-title-line-clamp: 0; --fg-description-line-clamp: 0;\" >\n\t<div class=\"fiv-inner\">\n\t\t<div class=\"fiv-inner-container\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0715.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"Les feuilles de cigare \u00e0 s\u00e9cher\" data-attachment-id=\"862\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0715\/3026881486.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-desc\">Les feuilles de cigare \u00e0 s\u00e9cher<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0717.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"Les feuilles sont tr\u00e8s \u00e9lastiques au toucher\" data-attachment-id=\"863\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0717\/702544164.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-desc\">Les feuilles sont tr\u00e8s \u00e9lastiques au toucher<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0718.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"864\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0718\/2208147886.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0720.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"865\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0720\/3060136777.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0722.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"Comment rouler le cigare\" data-attachment-id=\"866\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0722\/1333880012.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-desc\">Comment rouler le cigare<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0723.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"867\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0723\/1555763653.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0724.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"868\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0724\/1865083143.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0727.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"869\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0727\/1043700595.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0728.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"Des grains de caf\u00e9s qui s\u00e8chent\" data-attachment-id=\"870\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0728\/470276391.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-desc\">Des grains de caf\u00e9s qui s\u00e8chent<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0730.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"871\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0730\/118072134.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0732.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"Chocolate et Caramelo, et leurs deux apprentis cavaliers.\" data-attachment-id=\"872\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0732\/4276960451.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-desc\">Chocolate et Caramelo, et leurs deux apprentis cavaliers.<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0733.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"873\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0733\/3990309322.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0735.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"874\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0735\/1490682475.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"fiv-ctrls\">\n\t\t\t<button type=\"button\" class=\"fiv-prev\" title=\"Prev\"><span>Prev<\/span><\/button>\n\t\t\t<label class=\"fiv-count\"><span class=\"fiv-count-current\">1<\/span>of<span class=\"fiv-count-total\">13<\/span><\/label>\n\t\t\t<button type=\"button\" class=\"fiv-next\" title=\"Next\"><span>Next<\/span><\/button>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Vi\u00f1ales, c&rsquo;est fini ! Le 18 mars, direction Trinidad, dans le centre du pays. Nous avons pris le bus t\u00f4t le matin, pr\u00eats \u00e0 affronter les dix heures de trajet. Heureusement, les bus longs trajets de Cuba sont moins fous qu&rsquo;en \u00c9quateur (o\u00f9 un Cuenca-Quito peut se faire sans aucun arr\u00eat en neuf heures de route dans la montagne), et nous avons donc profit\u00e9 de quelques pauses pour nous ravitailler et arriver (presque) frais et dispos \u00e0 Trinidad. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Apr\u00e8s un premier contact tr\u00e8s chaleureux avec nos h\u00f4tes, Carlos et sa m\u00e8re Ana, qui ont une petite maison avec un patio magnifique, nous nous sommes promen\u00e9s dans les rues du centre historique de Trinidad. Cette ville est vraiment tr\u00e8s touristique, et pour cause : les fa\u00e7ades color\u00e9es des maisons sont autrement plus soign\u00e9es qu&rsquo;\u00e0 La Havane, les rues pav\u00e9es du centre sont interdites aux voitures, les m\u00e9lodies de guitaristes se font entendre aux coins des rues. Lorsque j&rsquo;ai aper\u00e7u, entre deux maisons, les montagnes bleut\u00e9es du massif de l&rsquo;<em>Escambray<\/em>, cette ville m&rsquo;a fait penser \u00e0 Cuenca. Mais elle a un avantage de taille : la mer toute proche, que l&rsquo;on peut admirer depuis la Plaza Mayor. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>J&rsquo;insiste, peut-\u00eatre lourdement, sur les fa\u00e7ades : \u00e0 Trinidad, chaque maison poss\u00e8de une teinte vive. Ces teintes varient entre quatre tons principaux : vert turquoise, bleu ciel, jaune, et bleu fonc\u00e9. Un rose saumon ou un rouge-orang\u00e9 peut parfois surprendre au d\u00e9tour d&rsquo;une ruelle. <\/p>\n\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\">\n#foogallery-gallery-876 .fg-image { width: 640px; }<\/style>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"foogallery foogallery-container foogallery-image-viewer foogallery-link-image foogallery-lightbox-foobox fg-center fg-image-viewer fg-ready fg-light fg-border-thin fg-shadow-outline fg-loading-default fg-loaded-fade-in fg-caption-hover fg-hover-fade fg-hover-zoom\" id=\"foogallery-gallery-876\" data-foogallery=\"{&quot;item&quot;:{&quot;showCaptionTitle&quot;:false,&quot;showCaptionDescription&quot;:false},&quot;lazy&quot;:true,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;src&quot;,&quot;srcset&quot;:&quot;srcset&quot;,&quot;template&quot;:{&quot;loop&quot;:true,&quot;autoplay&quot;:0}}\" style=\"--fg-title-line-clamp: 0; --fg-description-line-clamp: 0;\" >\n\t<div class=\"fiv-inner\">\n\t\t<div class=\"fiv-inner-container\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0756.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"880\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0756\/1513885208.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0748.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"877\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0748\/982980066.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0751.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"878\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0751\/200797009.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0752.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"879\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0752\/1525192997.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0771.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"881\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0771\/2711575056.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0774.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"882\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0774\/1388235916.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"fiv-ctrls\">\n\t\t\t<button type=\"button\" class=\"fiv-prev\" title=\"Prev\"><span>Prev<\/span><\/button>\n\t\t\t<label class=\"fiv-count\"><span class=\"fiv-count-current\">1<\/span>of<span class=\"fiv-count-total\">6<\/span><\/label>\n\t\t\t<button type=\"button\" class=\"fiv-next\" title=\"Next\"><span>Next<\/span><\/button>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Le lendemain, apr\u00e8s un excellent petit-d\u00e9jeuner servi par Ana, nous avons continu\u00e9 notre promenade dans la ville, en visitant cette fois-ci certains lieux embl\u00e9matiques. Nous avons pu admirer Trinidad depuis la tour du Palacio Cantero (ancienne demeure d&rsquo;une famille qui vivait de la canne \u00e0 sucre), nous avons fl\u00e2n\u00e9 dans le petit mus\u00e9e d&rsquo;art de la ville, nous nous sommes pos\u00e9s sur les marches de l&rsquo;escalier pr\u00e8s de l&rsquo;\u00e9glise. Nous avons \u00e9galement d\u00e9gust\u00e9 le cocktail local, la <em>canchanchara<\/em>, \u00e0 base de rhum, d&rsquo;eau-de-vie, de citron et de miel. D\u00e9licieux !<\/p>\n\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\">\n#foogallery-gallery-883 .fg-image { width: 640px; }<\/style>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"foogallery foogallery-container foogallery-image-viewer foogallery-link-image foogallery-lightbox-foobox fg-center fg-image-viewer fg-ready fg-light fg-border-thin fg-shadow-outline fg-loading-default fg-loaded-fade-in fg-caption-hover fg-hover-fade fg-hover-zoom\" id=\"foogallery-gallery-883\" data-foogallery=\"{&quot;item&quot;:{&quot;showCaptionTitle&quot;:false,&quot;showCaptionDescription&quot;:false},&quot;lazy&quot;:true,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;src&quot;,&quot;srcset&quot;:&quot;srcset&quot;,&quot;template&quot;:{&quot;loop&quot;:true,&quot;autoplay&quot;:0}}\" style=\"--fg-title-line-clamp: 0; --fg-description-line-clamp: 0;\" >\n\t<div class=\"fiv-inner\">\n\t\t<div class=\"fiv-inner-container\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0790.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"884\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0790\/3752080986.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0793.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"885\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0793\/2394637358.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0798.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"886\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0798\/1745928320.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0811.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"887\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0811\/3793508265.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0820.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"888\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0820\/779065897.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0827.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"889\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0827\/4214941351.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0830.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"890\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0830\/496413445.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0832.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"891\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0832\/2149833199.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0837.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"892\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0837\/1929531251.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0845.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"893\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0845\/2329301072.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0849.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"894\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0849\/2921006905.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0869.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"895\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0869\/1602050600.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0877.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"896\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0877\/3863856289.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0879.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"897\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0879\/743940868.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0891.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"898\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0891\/237277944.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0893_01.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"899\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0893_01\/4088480187.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"fiv-ctrls\">\n\t\t\t<button type=\"button\" class=\"fiv-prev\" title=\"Prev\"><span>Prev<\/span><\/button>\n\t\t\t<label class=\"fiv-count\"><span class=\"fiv-count-current\">1<\/span>of<span class=\"fiv-count-total\">16<\/span><\/label>\n\t\t\t<button type=\"button\" class=\"fiv-next\" title=\"Next\"><span>Next<\/span><\/button>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous voici d\u00e9j\u00e0 le 20 mars, la fin du voyage approche ! Il nous reste encore deux jours \u00e0 Trinindad. La veille, nous avons achet\u00e9 un tour aupr\u00e8s d&rsquo;une agence pour aller dans le parc national <em>Topes de Collantes<\/em>, dans la montagne de l&rsquo;Escambray. Horreur : la pluie s&rsquo;est abattue sur Trinindad en d\u00e9but de matin\u00e9e, sans piti\u00e9. Mais l&rsquo;excursion en montagne n&rsquo;a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 annul\u00e9e : nous avons pris place \u00e0 bord d&rsquo;un camion de convoi militaire russe, en compagnie de quelques fran\u00e7ais et d&rsquo;un groupe de bosniaques. Le toit n&rsquo;\u00e9tant pas \u00e9tanche, c&rsquo;est tremp\u00e9s et frigorifi\u00e9s que nous sommes arriv\u00e9s au centre d&rsquo;information du parc une demi-heure plus tard. Les bosniaques avaient fait tourner (entre eux) leurs fioles d&rsquo;alcool fort, donc ils g\u00e9raient un peu mieux la diff\u00e9rence de temp\u00e9rature. Devant nos pr\u00e9occupations, le guide nous a quand m\u00eame rassur\u00e9s en expliquant que, bien que le chemin de rando devait \u00eatre glissant, il \u00e9tait praticable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous avons eu de la chance : \u00e0 partir du moment o\u00f9 nous avons commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 marcher jusqu&rsquo;au point d&rsquo;arriv\u00e9e (un restaurant-camping), la pluie s&rsquo;est arr\u00eat\u00e9e. La marche aura dur\u00e9 trois heures au total, en comptant une pause baignade dans un petit lac \u00e0 cascade. J&rsquo;avais anticip\u00e9 en mettant mon maillot de bain, mais je ne m&rsquo;y suis pas risqu\u00e9e : m\u00eame les bosniaques ont l\u00e2ch\u00e9 des petits cris d&rsquo;inconfort devant la fra\u00eecheur de la temp\u00e9rature de l&rsquo;eau. <\/p>\n\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\">\n#foogallery-gallery-901 .fg-image { width: 150px; }\n#foogallery-gallery-901 { --fg-gutter: 10px; }<\/style>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"foogallery foogallery-container foogallery-default foogallery-lightbox-foobox fg-center fg-default fg-ready fg-light fg-border-thin fg-shadow-outline fg-loading-default fg-loaded-fade-in fg-caption-hover fg-hover-fade fg-hover-zoom\" id=\"foogallery-gallery-901\" data-foogallery=\"{&quot;item&quot;:{&quot;showCaptionTitle&quot;:false,&quot;showCaptionDescription&quot;:true},&quot;lazy&quot;:true,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;src&quot;,&quot;srcset&quot;:&quot;srcset&quot;}\" style=\"--fg-title-line-clamp: 0; --fg-description-line-clamp: 0;\" >\n\t<div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0895.jpg\" data-caption-desc=\"Le camion qui nous a conduit dans la montagne\" data-attachment-id=\"902\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0895\/2307562375.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><figcaption class=\"fg-caption\"><div class=\"fg-caption-inner\"><div class=\"fg-caption-desc\">Le camion qui nous a conduit dans la montagne<\/div><\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0896.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"903\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0896\/3633703411.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0910.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"904\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0910\/964848500.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0924.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"905\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0924\/1540697308.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Pour notre dernier jour \u00e0 Trinindad, nous avons d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de prendre un taxi pour parcourir la <em>Valle de los Ingenios<\/em>. Il s&rsquo;agit d&rsquo;une vall\u00e9e fertile qui a servi \u00e0 cultiver la canne \u00e0 sucre de fa\u00e7on intensive jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 l&rsquo;abolition de l&rsquo;esclavage et \u00e0 la r\u00e9volution. Aujourd&rsquo;hui on ne cultive presque plus de canne, mais le paysage reste sublime, et la vall\u00e9e est charg\u00e9e d&rsquo;histoire. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Parmi les visites, nous avons particuli\u00e8rement appr\u00e9ci\u00e9 celle d&rsquo;une ancienne usine de sucre. Nous \u00e9tions les seuls touristes, au milieu d&rsquo;un d\u00e9cor surr\u00e9aliste o\u00f9 des machines color\u00e9es dignes d&rsquo;un jeu de construction pour enfant se dressaient de chaque c\u00f4t\u00e9, imposantes et dr\u00f4les \u00e0 la fois. Seules les marques de rouille t\u00e9moignaient de l&rsquo;anciennet\u00e9 et du v\u00e9cu de ces machines. Le responsable du mus\u00e9e (c&rsquo;est comme \u00e7a qu&rsquo;\u00e9tait d\u00e9sign\u00e9 le lieu, puisque l&rsquo;usine ne fonctionne plus aujourd&rsquo;hui) nous a tout expliqu\u00e9 en d\u00e9tail : la crise du sucre \u00e0 Cuba, le processus de raffinement, les plantations de canne \u00e0 sucre. Nous avons appris que le sucre \u00e9tait la seconde source de revenus du pays, apr\u00e8s le tourisme, et que le pays avait souffert de la baisse du cours du sucre au niveau mondial. Le responsable nous a indiqu\u00e9 qu&rsquo;il \u00e9tait lui-m\u00eame ouvrier, qu&rsquo;il avait perdu son travail quand les usines ont ferm\u00e9, et que le gouvernement lui avait donn\u00e9 une bourse pour \u00e9tudier et se reconvertir dans la gestion de b\u00e2timents anciens. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Il nous a pr\u00e9cis\u00e9 que, dans l&rsquo;exploitation de la canne \u00e0 sucre, rien ne se perdait : les fibres v\u00e9g\u00e9tales \u00e9taient utilis\u00e9es comme combustible dans l&rsquo;usine, les restes de m\u00e9lasse servaient \u00e0 faire du rhum, et les d\u00e9chets organiques pr\u00e9sents dans les sucres, une fois s\u00e9par\u00e9s, \u00e9taient utilis\u00e9s comme engrais dans les champs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dans la biographie du Che, j&rsquo;ai pu lire une pr\u00e9cision suppl\u00e9mentaire : peu de temps apr\u00e8s la r\u00e9volution, Fidel Castro a appel\u00e9 les agriculteurs \u00e0 d\u00e9truire les champs de canne \u00e0 sucre, symbole de la d\u00e9pendance de Cuba et du colonialisme, afin d&rsquo;y planter d&rsquo;autres cultures pour diversifier leur ressources. Malheureusement, il n&rsquo;avait pas anticip\u00e9 un fait crucial : un champ de canne \u00e0 sucre d\u00e9frich\u00e9 met dix ans \u00e0 devenir productif pour d&rsquo;autres cultures. Ce fut un autre coup dur pour l&rsquo;\u00e9conomie du pays. <\/p>\n\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\">\n#foogallery-gallery-906 .fg-image { width: 150px; }\n#foogallery-gallery-906 { --fg-gutter: 10px; }<\/style>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"foogallery foogallery-container foogallery-default foogallery-lightbox-foobox fg-center fg-default fg-ready fg-light fg-border-thin fg-shadow-outline fg-loading-default fg-loaded-fade-in fg-caption-hover fg-hover-fade fg-hover-zoom\" id=\"foogallery-gallery-906\" data-foogallery=\"{&quot;item&quot;:{&quot;showCaptionTitle&quot;:true,&quot;showCaptionDescription&quot;:true},&quot;lazy&quot;:true,&quot;src&quot;:&quot;src&quot;,&quot;srcset&quot;:&quot;srcset&quot;}\" style=\"--fg-title-line-clamp: 0; --fg-description-line-clamp: 0;\" >\n\t<div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0928.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"907\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0928\/2613066835.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0933.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"908\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0933\/3901080989.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0939.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"909\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0939\/2799021250.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0942.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"910\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0942\/1691127205.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0946.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"911\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0946\/1058469576.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0961.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"912\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0961\/2699317167.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0962.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"913\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0962\/4059774427.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0963.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"914\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0963\/1311997795.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0964.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"915\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0964\/2607154157.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0969.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"916\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0969\/3147992772.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0971.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"917\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0971\/2695689381.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"fg-item fg-type-image fg-loading\"><figure class=\"fg-item-inner\"><a href=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2019\/03\/DSC_0981.jpg\" data-attachment-id=\"918\" data-type=\"image\" class=\"fg-thumb\"><span class=\"fg-image-wrap\"><img src=\"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/cache\/2019\/03\/DSC_0981\/1178716847.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"skip-lazy fg-image\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\"><\/span><span class=\"fg-image-overlay\"><\/span><\/a><\/figure><div class=\"fg-loader\"><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Au revoir Trinidad : apr\u00e8s un passage improvis\u00e9 chez le coiffeur (pour moi !) et un dernier repas en ville, nous prenons le bus en direction de la Havane. Nous avons choisi une <em>casa particular<\/em> proche du terminal de bus. Notre arriv\u00e9e tardive ne nous a pas permis de profiter une derni\u00e8re fois du centre-ville, trop distant. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nous avons pris l&rsquo;avion du retour le 23 mars enchant\u00e9s de ce pays, ravis d&rsquo;avoir choisi cette destination chaleureuse, humaine, et pleine de surprises. J&rsquo;avais le c\u0153ur serr\u00e9 en partant : deux semaines, c&rsquo;est trop peu pour conna\u00eetre ce pays. Je m&rsquo;y suis attach\u00e9e tr\u00e8s rapidement, et j&rsquo;\u00e9tais donc un peu triste de laisser Cuba derri\u00e8re moi. Enfin, comme l&rsquo;a dit un fran\u00e7ais que nous avons rencontr\u00e9 dans le camion russe, \u00ab\u00a0mais pour vous \u00e7a va : vous rentrez en \u00c9quateur apr\u00e8s !\u00a0\u00bb.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Voici le second et dernier \u00e9pisode de notre parenth\u00e8se cubaine. Apr\u00e8s la Havane, nous avons pris un bus le 15 mars pour nous diriger vers la partie Ouest du pays, vers la vall\u00e9e de Vi\u00f1ales. Apr\u00e8s presque 4 heures de trajet nous voil\u00e0 d\u00e9barqu\u00e9s dans ce petit village. \u00c0 notre grande surprise, de nombreux locaux [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":848,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-843","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-divers","odd"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/843"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=843"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/843\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":920,"href":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/843\/revisions\/920"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/848"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=843"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=843"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rinemo.fr\/ecuador\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=843"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}